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Leeks are an
aristocrat of a vegetable. They require much of the year to grow, lots
of space and tender care: You need to hill up soil around them on a
regular basis to get that shank—the part you eat—long and white enough
to be worth it. So when you find well-grown leeks, treat them regally.
This braise preserves the integrity of the leeks; at the table, you cut
them with a knife and fork
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